6 Triathlon Power Meters Reviews
Power meters for bicycles can be helpful for cyclists to increase their performance and velocity. A power meter might not be essential for a beginner cyclist or triathlete, but it can be advantageous for those at an intermediate or advanced level.
Power meters can be fairly simple to implement, and suitable for both racing and regular bikes. In other words, cyclometers can be put on any sort of bike, but they are mostly used by cyclists who want to become more precise and faster in their training.
You wouldn’t attempt to lift weights without knowing how much weight is on each dumbbell. The advantage of power meters is that you can work on areas for improvement since you can measure them.
Most bicyclists and motorcycle riders are obsessed with equipment, but power meters take the complexity of bike accessories to a higher level. It can be challenging to understand power measurement due to the many options available, but we will make an effort to simplify it in our guide below.
Triathlete’s Power Meters
1. Look at Keo Power
A pedal-based power meter is available, which makes it convenient for cyclists to transfer between different bikes or change wheels easily.
Can be swapped between bikes; independent leg power measurement
Few computer options, all lacking popular features
Once knowledgeable about certain installation nuances, it’s quite simple to move the pedals from one bike to another and should be done quickly. Tools included with the pedals make installation easier. It is not straightforward to install regular pedals.
The process of attaching the computer to the power meter takes a couple of seconds and the pedals recalibrate each time they are booted up. All Look Keo cleats are compatible with Keo Power.
Ease of installation and an extensive range of wheel compatibility make Keo Power an ideal choice when it comes to crankset and hub-based power systems. No longer do you need to fear the process of moving a crank, as Keo Power ensures a stress-free solution to your power system needs? The primary selling point is the capability to quickly interchange the system between bicycles, making it especially attractive to cyclists who exercise on various bikes.
The device measures the energy output from both legs and when connected to a Polar CS600 computer, it can show the comparison between the two legs instantly.
The system takes advantage of the proprietary transmission system of Polar, meaning that Keo Power is only compatible with a few Polar computers which lack features like GPS or a good selection of data display choices that similar head units have.
A GPS-equipped option is nearing completion, however.
While there were a few transmission issues that a tester stumbled upon during a single set of trials, the pedals differently operated competently in all other experiments and the power data was much like other already established systems.
When activating the Keo Power, be sure to connect the left and right transmitters together first. This is something that needs to be done before entering transition one so the head unit is ready for use by the time you remove your bike from the transition rack.
2. SRM Shimano Dura-Ace 7900 Training System
A crank-based power meter can be shifted between racing and training wheels, but it requires some mechanical skills to switch it to different bikes.
Flawless function with every piece included
Price; computer lacks GPS
Installation is quite simple. It’s similar to attaching an ordinary crankset, apart from needing to put on a cadence magnet. All of the components you need to begin measuring power are contained in the teaching system.
Once one is familiar with how SRM works, one should anticipate dependable, stable service that has been refined for a quarter of a century. The crank alone is over £3,000.
SRM’s hallmark is simplistic, dependable function. The SRM Training System has everything necessary to begin exercising power right away; however, the other power meters highlighted in this review necessitate additional items.
This package consists of the Power Control 7 computer, wireless speed and cadence sensors to log data and the program SRM for analysing the information.
The Power Control 7 is not quite as simple to use as the Garmin Edge 500 and does not have GPS capability. There are multiple types of wireless SRM power meter crank arms.
It does not matter what kind of crankset you have, how short it may be (as short as 165mm), or what type of bottom bracket it takes, an SRM option can likely work for you.
SRM power meters have been renowned as the peak of excellence when comparing different products, and it is easy to see why. The SRM worked flawlessly without any data transmission issues.
At the commencement of a journey, the system must be adjusted, yet it is not possible to readjust it throughout the journey, signifying that the precision of data can get distorted if circumstances alter.
The internal battery provides about 1,400 hours of use on this device from SRM, and when the battery runs out, it will need to be returned to SRM in Colorado for a new one.
3. Sram Red Quarq
A crank-based power meter is a type of power meter that can be switched between race wheels and training wheels; however, it requires some mechanical expertise to move the meter between bikes.
Cheapest crank-based meter
Comes without the necessary accessories or computer
Putting in this power meter is similar to installing a crankset, which is easier than it may appear. Once you become familiar with the fundamental processes needed, changing the Quarq from one bicycle to another will only take a few minutes.
You will require an ANT+ compatible computer and application like Training Peaks if you plan to use the crankset as it does not come with any electronic add-ons.
It is part of the Sram Red component collection, and it must work in conjunction with the corresponding front shifter and derailleur to give you the greatest shifting experience. Those who do not have Red Riders may endanger the quality of the shift.
The Garmin Edge 500, 800, or Forerunner 910XT can show the distinct levels of energy produced in the first and second portions of the cycling stroke, giving insight into the balance between the right and left legs.
Be aware that the power balance ratio does not measure the amount of work put in individually by your left and right sides.
In general, the balance between the rider’s legs while cycling is usually 49/51%. However, when the rider was recovering from a sore knee, the balance was 46/54%.
This unit functioned well in numerous climates as soon as it was purchased. It is relatively simple to get the power meter to link with gadgets that work with Garmin ANT+, and setting up the device manually is also uncomplicated, although it entails a lot of button pressing.
The unit can reset itself while using it, which is done by reversing the pedals several times, however, it does not indicate when this has taken place, leaving the individual in doubt.
You can purchase this item with either the conventional (53/39) or the smaller (50/34) gear ratio and the shortest crank length offered is 170mm. The battery can easily be purchased for a few dollars at any drug store and it only takes two minutes or less to install; however, it will need to be replaced once or twice a year.
4. Saris PowerTap G3
A hub-based power meter is very convenient to use with different bikes, however, it restricts the options for race-day wheels if you need to track data.
Simple to use and easily swaps between bikes
Can’t alternate between race and training wheels
After fitting four power meters for the assessment, the PowerTap was, without doubt, the simplest to configure and took the least amount of time, with minimal difficulty. Putting the G3 on should be a piece of cake if you know how to attach tires and put a cassette on.
The connection between the hub and a Garmin Edge 500 was established through its ANT+ capability, and setting up the hub was done smoothly. It does not take long to adjust the calibrations, but it must be done when you are not on the bike.
If you are not knowledgeable when it comes to machinery and desire a trustworthy and easy-to-utilize power meter system, then this is the perfect item for you.
The chief advantage this system has over the others is that you can move the power meter between bikes without any extra sensors, magnets, or wires needed, regardless of the cost.
The only negative aspect of PowerTap is that if you need to use multiple wheels for your training and races, then you will have to buy a PowerTap for each wheel.
Many triathletes have found solutions to the pricey problem of buying new wheels for training and racing by constructing a PowerTap hub into a strong training wheel and employing a disc wheel shield for racing.
Adding a bit of heft to your back wheel is achievable with this, and it happens to be a relatively inexpensive choice. Using a rim that can be used both for practice and competitions is also an option.
The G3 is more lightweight than the preceding PowerTap hubs and is simpler to maintain.
The electronics connected to the PowerTap are incorporated into a detachable cap, so if something malfunctions, you only need to deliver the miniature lid instead of the entire wheel.
Replacing the battery of the PowerTap G3 is relatively easy and can be done with an included tool that is uniquely designed for it. The battery itself is a regular watch-style battery.
5. Garmin Rally 200
Garmin produces a power meter attachable to your pedals that calculates your wattage strictly dependent on the energy you put into the pedals. Yeah – that is pretty incredible.
Although you might not get the exactness of a power-measuring tech, we’ve discovered that pedal-based power meters provide all your necessary performance information and also supply marvellous analytics.
This product is advanced and we expect the results to be precise.
Garmin indicates that this power measure will be precise for cyclists who weigh up to 240 pounds. We are uncertain about what will occur next, but it seems that it might not be as effective.
It is essential to think about the type of cleat which comes with the Rally 200. There are two models of this pedal available right now – the RS is the SDP-SL type and the XC is the SPD kind.
You can choose to have power readouts from either a single pedal or from two pedals. There is no reason why you should not choose the dual option, aside from the increased cost.
The unit runs off of a battery that is capable of lasting up to 120 hours, according to the manufacturer. Using Garmin software on your phone is the most popular way to track your energy usage. Logging in this way will give you a readout of power.
For cyclists who want a simple way to track their power while on a ride, they can mount their head-unit bike, however, their ride data should be stored and tracked on Garmin Connect rather than their watch or computer.
This is not inexpensive, costing £1,000 plus, but if you can afford it, you will be impressed by the information given. Out of all the possibilities you have, this one will be definitely the most trouble-free and straightforward to put in. Putting a new pedal on is a cinch.
6. Stages Crank Arm-Based Power Meters
At the basic level, there is a different concept: the stages line of power meters. We love these. Both Garmin and the system use the same technique of making small alterations on one side of the power system. The Stages model collects data differently than the Garmin by using an altered crank.
You will find a carbon fibre high-end crank on your bike, much the same as the quality Shimano and Campy items that typically are installed on bicycles. It has a lightweight material strength that matches these established brands.
They produce styles of mountain and road bicycles – we are clearly concentrating more on road bikes (and triathlon bikes) for this evaluation.
The power meter is located inside the left crank and is already set up and secured. All that is necessary is to attach the crank to the bicycle securely with a torque wrench, as it is a delicate material.
The downside of using a crank-based approach is that you may have to change something which you might already be quite content with, like the length and design of the crank.
It may be hard to notice any variations if you exchange hubs, as stated below, but you will likely be aware of the changes if you employ new cranks. These cranks are crafted nicely, so it would likely either be an even change or an improvement for most people.
This model of battery has a much better life span than the one that uses pedals and can last up to 200 hours or above. You can calculate up to 2,500 watts, which is ample power for any cyclist, as is the capacity to measure a cadence of up to 220 revolutions per minute.
We’re pleased that attaching this item will barely increase the weight of an already light device, with an additional 18-20 grams being almost unnoticeable.
Take note that this is only meant to be attached to one of your cranks, usually the left one, so it will only give readings from that side. For most cyclists, that shouldn’t be an issue.
The Stages Crank Arm-based meter is offered in Ultegra and Dura-Ace varieties, so you can find the one that fits your bike.
The only concerns stopping us from making this our primary pick are that 1) from our latest research, you need to obtain one of Stages’ digital head units (which costs approximately £250) to have a fixed display, and 2) it is a bit more detailed to fit a new crank axle as opposed to merely installing a new pedal.
We have no qualms about suggesting this product or even placing it on our own bike.
